Why I Turn Every Bottle Around: Understanding Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives
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Why I Turn Every Bottle Around
There are a few things I do almost automatically whenever I come across a skincare product.
Before I notice the promises on the front, I turn it around.
The ingredient list often tells a very different story.
Recently, I wrote about formaldehyde-releasing preservatives on LinkedIn. It prompted some thoughtful conversations and reminded me why I have always believed that understanding what's inside a product matters just as much as understanding what it promises to do.
It made me ask a simple question:
If there are other ways to formulate safely, why choose this approach in the first place?
That question sits at the heart of everything I do.
Good formulation starts with a simple question
When I created FYI, I didn't start with ingredients.
I started with a question.
How can I make this as safe, simple and purposeful as possible?
For me, good formulation isn't about adding as many ingredients as possible.
It's about adding only what is needed.
Every ingredient should have a purpose.
Every ingredient should benefit the skin.
Every ingredient should earn its place.
That philosophy has shaped every product I've created.
Why ingredient lists matter
Most skincare marketing focuses on what has been added.
Vitamin C.
Retinol.
Peptides.
Botanical extracts.
Those ingredients may all have value.
But they only tell part of the story.
The ingredients that often receive the least attention are the ones responsible for preserving a product, improving texture or extending shelf life.
They're important too.
And I believe they deserve the same curiosity as the ingredients celebrated on the front of the bottle.
What are formaldehyde-releasing preservatives?
Formaldehyde itself is prohibited as an ingredient in cosmetic products across the UK and EU.
However, some preservatives that remain permitted can slowly release very small amounts of formaldehyde over time to help protect water-based products from bacteria, mould and yeast.
Examples include:
- DMDM Hydantoin
- Imidazolidinyl Urea
- Diazolidinyl Urea
- Quaternium-15
- Bronopol
- Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
These ingredients are permitted within strict regulatory limits.
Their presence does not automatically make a product unsafe.
However, formaldehyde is recognised as one of the most common causes of preservative-related contact allergy, and some people choose to avoid formaldehyde-releasing preservatives for that reason.
For me, this isn't about telling anyone what they should buy.
It's about understanding the different ways products can be formulated and making informed choices.
Regulation and formulation are different conversations
One sentence has stayed with me throughout this journey.
Regulation tells us what is permitted. Thoughtful formulation asks what is necessary.
Those are two very different questions.
Regulation provides the minimum legal standard.
Thoughtful formulation asks whether there is a simpler or more considered way to achieve the same outcome.
That mindset influences every decision I make.
How we approached Wonder Balm
When I developed Wonder Balm, I didn't begin by asking,
"Which preservative should I use?"
I asked a different question.
Can I formulate this in a way that doesn't require one?
Because Wonder Balm is completely water-free, it doesn't require a conventional preservative system.
Instead, every element of the formulation has been chosen with intention.
Rosemary extract helps protect the plant oils from oxidation.
Miron violet glass helps reduce light exposure and protect the integrity of the formulation.
Every decision works together because every detail has a purpose.
Thoughtful formulation doesn't stop with the ingredients
One recommendation I often make is to use a clean spatula rather than your fingers when applying any balm from a jar.
It isn't about being overly cautious.
It's simply a practical way to reduce introducing moisture, bacteria and contamination into the product over time.
The same thinking influences every formulation decision I make.
It's not just about choosing the right ingredients.
It's about considering how a product is stored, packaged and used every day.
Because thoughtful formulation doesn't end when the ingredients are chosen.
It continues throughout the entire experience.
Education before fear
I don't believe skincare should be confusing.
I don't believe we should frighten people into buying products.
And I certainly don't believe in criticising other brands.
I simply believe we deserve to understand the products we use every day.
When we understand them, we can make informed choices that reflect our own values.
For some people, that may change nothing.
For others, it may change everything.
Either way, knowledge is always valuable.
Every ingredient earns its place
The more I formulate, the more convinced I become that thoughtful skincare isn't about chasing miracle ingredients.
It's about choosing only what is needed.
Every ingredient should have a purpose.
Every ingredient should benefit the skin.
Every ingredient should earn its place.
The female body sits at the centre of every formulation decision I make.
Because that's how I believe formulation should work.
And that's why, whenever I pick up a bottle, I still turn it around.
Not to find fault.
But to understand.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are formaldehyde-releasing preservatives legal?
Yes. Several formaldehyde-releasing preservatives remain permitted for use in cosmetics within strict regulatory limits in the UK and EU. Recent regulations have also introduced labelling requirements for products that release formaldehyde above specified thresholds.
Does Wonder Balm contain preservatives?
No. Wonder Balm is water-free, so it does not require a conventional preservative system.
Why do you use Miron violet glass?
Miron violet glass helps reduce light exposure, protecting the integrity of delicate plant oils and supporting the longevity of the formulation.
Why do you recommend using a spatula?
I recommend using a clean spatula when applying any balm from a jar. It helps minimise introducing moisture, bacteria and contamination into the product, while encouraging you to use only the amount you need.
Final thought
I don't turn every bottle around because I'm looking for perfection.
I turn it around because I believe every ingredient tells part of the story.
When we understand how a product has been formulated, we can make choices that align with our own values, our skin and our wellbeing.
For me, that's where thoughtful formulation begins.
Not to find fault.
But to understand.
Thoughtful Formulation
By Franchine Young
A series exploring the questions behind the ingredients, because understanding how a product is made is just as important as understanding what it promises to do.